Ke ulu nei ka ʻili, ua emi ka hana physiologic. Hoʻokomo ʻia kēia mau hoʻololi e nā mea intrinsic (chronologic) a me extrinsic (predominately UV-induced). Hāʻawi nā Botanical i nā pono kūpono e hakakā i kekahi o nā hōʻailona o ka ʻelemakule. Ma ʻaneʻi, nānā mākou i nā botanicals koho a me nā hōʻike ʻepekema ma hope o kā lākou mau koi anti-kahiko. Hiki i nā Botanicals ke hāʻawi i ka anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturizing, UV-protection, a me nā hopena ʻē aʻe. Ua helu ʻia ka nui o nā huaʻai i mea ʻai i nā mea hoʻonaninani kaulana a me nā cosmeceuticals, akā he kakaikahi wale nō ke kūkākūkā ʻia ma aneʻi. Ua koho ʻia kēia ma muli o ka loaʻa ʻana o ka ʻikepili ʻepekema, ka makemake pilikino o nā mea kākau, a me ka ʻike ʻia o ka "kaulana" o nā huahana cosmetic a me cosmeceutical o kēia manawa. ʻO nā mea kanu i nānā ʻia ma ʻaneʻi, ʻo ia ka ʻaila argan, ka aila niu, crocin, feverfew, kī ʻōmaʻomaʻo, marigold, pomegerane, a me ka soy.
Hua'ōlelo: botanical; kūʻē i ka ʻelemakule; ʻaila argan; aila niu; crocini; feverfew; kī ʻōmaʻomaʻo; marigold; pomegerane; soya
3.1. ʻAila Argan
3.1.1. Moʻolelo, hoʻohana, a me nā koi
ʻO ka ʻaila Argan ka hopena o Morocco a ua hana ʻia mai nā hua o Argania sponosa L. He nui nā mea hoʻohana kuʻuna e like me ka kuke ʻana, ka mālama ʻana i nā maʻi ʻili, a me ka mālama ʻana i ka ʻili a me ka lauoho.
3.1.2. Hoʻohui a me ka Mechanism o ka hana
Hoʻokumu ʻia ka ʻaila Argan me 80% monounsaturated fat a me 20% saturated fatty acids a loaʻa nā polyphenols, tocopherols, sterols, squalene, a me ka triterpene alcohol.
3.1.3. Hōʻike ʻepekema
Ua hoʻohana mau ʻia ka ʻaila Argan ma Morocco e hōʻemi i ka pigmentation o ka maka, akā ʻaʻole i hoʻomaopopo mua ʻia ke kumu ʻepekema no kēia ʻōlelo. Ma kahi noiʻi ʻiole, ua kāohi ka ʻaila argan i ka tyrosinase a me ka dopachrome tautomerase hōʻike ma B16 murine melanoma cell, ka hopena i ka emi ʻana o ka nui o ka melanin. Hōʻike kēia i ka ʻaila argan he mea hiki ke hoʻopaʻa i ka melanin biosynthesis, akā pono nā hoʻokolohua hoʻokele randomized (RTC) i nā kumuhana kanaka e hōʻoia i kēia kuhiakau.
Ua manaʻo kekahi RTC liʻiliʻi o 60 mau wahine post-menopausal e hoʻemi i ka hoʻohana ʻana i kēlā me kēia lā a/a i ʻole ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ʻaila argan i ka wai transepidermal wai (TEWL), hoʻomaikaʻi i ka elasticity o ka ʻili, ma muli o ka piʻi ʻana o R2 (gross elasticity o ka ʻili), R5 (net elasticity o ka ʻili), a me R7 (biological elasticity) nā ʻāpana a me ka emi ʻana o ka resonance running time (RRT) (he ana pili ʻole i ka elasticity o ka ʻili). Ua koho ʻia nā hui e ʻai i ka ʻaila ʻoliva a i ʻole ka ʻaila argan. Hoʻopili nā hui ʻelua i ka ʻaila argan ma ka lima volar hema wale nō. Ua lawe ʻia nā ana mai nā lima lima akau a hema. Ua ʻike ʻia ka hoʻomaikaʻi ʻana i ka elasticity ma nā hui ʻelua ma ka pulima kahi i hoʻohana ʻia ai ka ʻaila argan, akā ma ka lima kahi i hoʻohana ʻole ʻia ai ka ʻaila argan wale nō ka hui e ʻai ana i ka ʻaila argan i piʻi nui i ka elasticity [31]. Hoʻopili ʻia kēia i ka hoʻonui ʻia ʻana o nā mea antioxidant i ka ʻaila argan i hoʻohālikelike ʻia me ka ʻaila ʻoliva. Ua manaʻo ʻia ʻo ia paha ma muli o kāna Vitamin E a me ka ferulic acid content, i ʻike ʻia he antioxidants.
3.2. ʻAila Niu
3.2.1. Moʻolelo, hoʻohana, a me nā koi
Loaʻa ʻia ka ʻaila niu mai ka hua maloʻo o Cocos nucifera a he nui nā hoʻohana, ʻo ka mōʻaukala a me ka wā hou. Ua hoʻohana ʻia ʻo ia ma ke ʻano he mea ʻala, ʻili, a me nā mea hoʻomaʻemaʻe lauoho, a ma nā huahana hoʻonaninani he nui. ʻOiai he nui nā mea i loaʻa i ka ʻaila niu, e like me ka ʻakika niu, ka wai niu hydrogenated, a me ka ʻaila niu hydrogenated, e kūkākūkā mākou i nā koi noiʻi e pili ana me ka ʻaila niu puʻupaʻa (VCO), i hoʻomākaukau ʻia me ka wela ʻole.
Ua hoʻohana ʻia ka ʻaila niu no ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻana i ka ʻili pēpē a he mea pono paha ia i ka mālama ʻana i ka dermatitis atopic no kāna mau waiwai moisturizing a me kona hopena i ka Staphylococcus aureus a me nā microbes ʻili ʻē aʻe i nā maʻi atopic. Ua hōʻike ʻia ka ʻaila niu e hoʻemi i ka noho ʻana o S. aureus ma ka ʻili o nā pākeke me ka dermatitis atopic ma kahi RTC makapō ʻelua.
3.2.2. Hoʻohui a me ka Mechanism o ka hana
Hoʻokumu ʻia ka ʻaila niu me 90-95% saturated triglycerides (lauric acid, myristic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, a me palmitic acid). He ʻokoʻa kēia me ka hapa nui o nā ʻaila meaʻai/huaʻai, ka mea i haku nui ʻia me ka momona ʻole. Hoʻohana ʻia nā triglycerides saturated topically e hoʻomaʻemaʻe i ka ʻili ma ke ʻano he emollient ma ka hoʻopalapala ʻana i nā kihi maloʻo o nā corneocytes a hoʻopiha i nā āpau ma waena o lākou.
3.2.3. Hōʻike ʻepekema
Hiki i ka ʻaila niu ke hoʻomaʻemaʻe i ka ʻili kahiko. He kanaonokumamālua pākēneka o nā ʻakika momona i loko o ka VCO he like ka lōʻihi a he 92% ka piha, kahi e hiki ai ke hoʻopaʻa paʻa i ka hopena i ʻoi aku ka hopena occlusive ma mua o ka aila ʻoliva. ʻO nā triglycerides i loko o ka ʻaila niu e wāwahi ʻia e nā lipases i loko o nā pua ʻili maʻamau i ka glycerin a me nā waikawa momona. He humectant ikaika ʻo Glycerin, e huki ana i ka wai i ka ʻili o ka epidermis mai ka ʻaoʻao o waho a me nā papa ʻili hohonu. He haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa ka ʻakika linoleic o nā ʻakika momona i loko o ka VCO, no ka mea hiki i ka linoleic acid ke hoʻonāukiuki i ka ʻili. ʻOi aku ka maikaʻi o ka ʻaila niu ma mua o ka ʻaila mineral i ka hoʻemi ʻana i ka TEWL i nā maʻi me ka dermatitis atopic a ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi a palekana e like me ka aila mineral i ka mālama ʻana i ka xerosis.
ʻO ka lauric acid, ka mea mua i ka monolaurin a me kahi mea nui o VCO, hiki ke loaʻa nā waiwai anti-inflammatory, hiki ke hoʻololi i ka hoʻonui ʻana o nā cell immune a kuleana no kekahi o nā hopena antimicrobial o VCO. Loaʻa i ka VCO nā kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe o ka ferulic acid a me ka p-coumaric acid (ʻelua phenolic acids), a ʻo nā kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe o kēia mau phenolic acid e pili pū ana me ka hoʻonui ʻana i ka mana antioxidant. He kūpono nā ʻakika Phenolic e kūʻē i ka pōʻino i hoʻoiho ʻia e UV. Eia nō naʻe, ʻoiai nā ʻōlelo e hiki ai i ka aila niu ke hana ma ke ʻano he pale lā, ua hōʻike ʻia nā haʻawina in vitro e hāʻawi ana i ka hiki ke pale ʻole i ka UV.
Ma waho aʻe o kāna mau hopena moisturizing a antioxidant, hōʻike nā ʻano holoholona e hiki i ka VCO ke hoʻemi i ka manawa hoʻōla ʻeha. Ua piʻi ka pae o ka pepsin-soluble collagen (higher collagen cross-linking) i nā ʻeha i mālama ʻia e VCO i hoʻohālikelike ʻia me nā mana. Ua hōʻike ka histopathology i ka hoʻonui ʻana o ka fibroblast proliferation a me ka neovascularization i kēia mau ʻeha. Pono nā noiʻi hou aʻe e ʻike inā hiki i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka VCO ke hoʻonui i ka pae collagen i ka ʻili kanaka.
3.3. Crocin
3.3.1. Moolelo, Hoohana, Koi
ʻO Crocin kahi mea olaola o ka saffron, i loaʻa mai i ka stigma maloʻo o Crocus sativus L. Ua mahi ʻia ʻo Saffron ma nā ʻāina he nui e like me Iran, India, a me Helene, a ua hoʻohana ʻia i ka lāʻau lapaʻau kuʻuna e hoʻēmi i nā ʻano maʻi like ʻole me ke kaumaha, ka mumū. , ma'i ate, a me na mea e ae.
3.3.2. Hoʻohui a me ka Mechanism o ka hana
ʻO Crocin ke kuleana no ke kala o ka saffron. Loaʻa ka Crocin i ka hua o Gardenia jasminoides Ellis. Hoʻokaʻawale ʻia ia ma ke ʻano he carotenoid glycoside.
3.3.3. Hōʻike ʻepekema
Loaʻa i ka Crocin nā hopena antioxidant, pale i ka squalene mai ka UV-induced peroxidation, a pale i ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana o nā mea hoʻomake. Ua hōʻike ʻia ka hopena antioxidant in vitro assays e hōʻike ana i ka hana antioxidant ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi ma mua o ka Vitamin C. Eia kekahi, ke kāohi nei ka crocin i ka UVA-induced cell membrane peroxidation a pale i ka hōʻike ʻana o nā mea hoʻolaha pro-inflammatory me IL-8, PGE-2, IL -6, TNF-α, IL-1α, a me LTB4. Hoʻemi pū ia i ka hōʻike ʻana o nā genes hilinaʻi NF-κB. Ma kahi noiʻi e hoʻohana ana i nā fibroblasts kanaka moʻomeheu, ua hoʻemi ʻo crocin i ka ROS i hoʻokomo ʻia i ka UV, hoʻolaha i ka hōʻike ʻana o ka protein matrix extracellular Col-1, a hoʻemi i ka helu o nā cell me nā phenotypes senescent ma hope o ka radiation UV. Hoʻemi ia i ka hana ROS a hoʻopaʻa i ka apoptosis. Ua hōʻike ʻia ʻo Crocin e kāohi i nā ala hōʻailona ERK / MAPK / NF-κB / STAT i nā ʻāpana HaCaT in vitro. ʻOiai hiki i ka crocin ke lilo i mea anti-aging cosmeceutical, he labile ka hui. Ua noiʻi ʻia ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā dispersions lipid nanostructured no ka hoʻokele topical me nā hopena hoʻohiki. No ka hoʻoholo ʻana i nā hopena o ka crocin in vivo, pono nā hoʻohālike holoholona hou a me nā hoʻokolohua hoʻokolohua randomized.
3.4. Feverfew
3.4.1. Moolelo, Hoohana, Koi
ʻO Feverfew, ʻo Tanacetum parthenium, he lāʻau mau loa i hoʻohana ʻia no nā kumu he nui i ka lāʻau lapaʻau.
3.4.2. Hoʻohui a me ka Mechanism o ka hana
Loaʻa i ka Feverfew ka parthenolide, kahi lactone sesquiterpene, ʻo ia paha ke kuleana no kekahi o kāna mau hopena anti-inflammatory, ma o ke kāohi ʻana o NF-κB. ʻO kēia kaohi ʻana o NF-κB ʻike ʻia he kūʻokoʻa i nā hopena antioxidant o parthenolide. Ua hōʻike pū ʻo Parthenolide i nā hopena anticancer e kūʻē i ka maʻi maʻi ʻili i hoʻokumu ʻia e UVB a me nā pūnaewele melanoma in vitro. ʻO ka mea pōʻino, hiki i ka parthenolide ke hoʻoulu i nā hopena maʻi, nā ʻōpala waha, a me ka dermatitis contact maʻi. Ma muli o kēia mau hopohopo, ua wehe ʻia i kēia manawa ma mua o ka hoʻohui ʻia ʻana o ka feverfew i nā huahana cosmetic.
3.4.3. Hōʻike ʻepekema
Ma muli o nā pilikia e pili ana i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka parthenolide, ua hoʻohana kekahi mau mea hoʻonaninani i kēia manawa me ka feverfew i ka parthenolide-depleted feverfew (PD-feverfew), ka mea i ʻōlelo ʻia ʻaʻole hiki ke hoʻonāwaliwali. Hiki i ka PD-feverfew ke hoʻoikaika i ka hana hoʻoponopono DNA endogenous i ka ʻili, hiki ke hoʻemi i ka pōʻino DNA i hoʻoiho ʻia e UV. Ma kahi haʻawina in vitro, ua hoʻemi ʻo PD-feverfew i ka hoʻokumu ʻana o ka hydrogen peroxide i hoʻoiho ʻia e UV a ua hoʻemi i ka hoʻokuʻu cytokine pro-inflammatory. Ua hōʻike i nā hopena antioxidant ikaika ma mua o ka mea hoʻohālikelike, Vitamin C, a hoʻemi i ka erythema i hoʻokomo ʻia i ka UV ma kahi RTC 12-kumu.
3.5. Kiʻi ʻōmaʻomaʻo
3.5.1. Moolelo, Hoohana, Koi
Ua ʻai ʻia ke kī ʻōmaʻomaʻo no kāna mau pono olakino ma Kina no nā kenekulia. Ma muli o kāna mau hopena antioxidant ikaika, aia ka hoihoi i ka hoʻomohala ʻana i kahi hoʻokumu topical paʻa, bioavailable.
3.5.2. Hoʻohui a me ka Mechanism o ka hana
ʻO ke kī ʻōmaʻomaʻo, mai Camellia sinensis, loaʻa i nā pūhui bioactive he nui me nā hopena anti-ʻelemakule, me ka caffeine, nā huaora, a me nā polyphenols. ʻO nā polyphenols nui i loko o ke kī ʻōmaʻomaʻo he catechins, he gallocatechin, epigallocatechin (ECG), a me epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). Epigallocatechin-3-gallate he antioxidant, photoprotective, immunomodulatory, anti-angiogenic, a me nā waiwai anti-inflammatory. Loaʻa i ke kī ʻōmaʻomaʻo ka nui o ka flavonol glycoside kaempferol, kahi i hoʻopaʻa maikaʻi ʻia i ka ʻili ma hope o ka hoʻohana ʻana.
3.5.3. Hōʻike ʻepekema
Hoʻemi ke kī ʻōmaʻomaʻo i ka hana ROS intracellular in vitro a ua hoʻemi i ka necrosis i hoʻoiho ʻia e ROS. ʻO ka Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (kahi polyphenol kī'ōmaʻomaʻo) ke kāohi i ka hoʻokuʻuʻana o ka hydrogen peroxide i ka UV, hoʻopau i ka phosphorylation o MAPK, a hoʻemi i ka mumū ma o ka hoʻouluʻana o NF-κB. Me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ʻili ex vivo mai kahi wahine olakino 31 makahiki, ʻo ka ʻili i mālama mua ʻia me ke kī keʻokeʻo a i ʻole ka ʻōmaʻomaʻo i hōʻike ʻia i ka paʻa ʻana o nā pūnaewele Langerhans (nā mea hōʻike antigen ke kuleana no ka hoʻokomo ʻana i ka pale i ka ʻili) ma hope o ka hoʻomālamalama ʻana o UV.
I loko o ke kŘkohu iole, ua ho'emi 'ia ka erythema, ka ho'emi 'ana i ka ili o ka leukocytes, a me ka emi 'ana o ka hana myeloperoxidase. Hiki iā ia ke kāohi i ka 5-α-reductase.
Ua loiloi kekahi mau haʻawina e pili ana i nā kumuhana kanaka i nā pono kūpono o ka hoʻohana ʻana i ke kī ʻōmaʻomaʻo. ʻO ka noi kumuhana o kahi emulsion kī ʻōmaʻomaʻo i kāohi i ka 5-α-reductase a alakaʻi i ka emi ʻana o ka nui o ka microcomedone i ka ʻeha microcomedonal. Ma kahi haʻawina liʻiliʻi ʻeono pule kanaka, ua hoʻemi ka ʻaila i loko o ka EGCG i ka hypoxia-inducible factor 1 α (HIF-1α) a me vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), e hōʻike ana i ka hiki ke pale i ka telangiectasias. Ma kahi haʻawina makapō ʻelua, ʻo ke kī ʻōmaʻomaʻo, ke kī keʻokeʻo, a i ʻole ke kaʻa wale nō i hoʻohana ʻia i ka ʻāʻī o 10 mau limahana olakino. A laila ua hoʻomālamalama ʻia ka ʻili me kahi 2 × liʻiliʻi erythema dose (MED) o ka UVR i hoʻohālikelike ʻia e ka lā. Ua hōʻike ʻia nā biopsies ʻili mai kēia mau pūnaewele e hiki ke hoʻemi nui i ka hoʻohana ʻana o ka ʻōmaʻomaʻo a i ʻole ke kī keʻokeʻo i ka pau ʻana o nā cell Langerhans, ma muli o ka CD1a positivity. Aia kekahi ʻāpana pale ʻana i ka pōʻino DNA oxidative i hoʻokomo ʻia e UV, e like me ka hōʻike ʻia e ka emi ʻana o nā pae o 8-OHdG. Ma kahi noiʻi ʻē aʻe, ua hoʻokaʻawale ʻia nā mea manawaleʻa makua 90 i ʻekolu pūʻulu: ʻAʻohe lāʻau lapaʻau, ke kī ʻōmaʻomaʻo, a i ʻole ke kī keʻokeʻo. Ua hoʻokaʻawale ʻia kēlā me kēia hui i nā pae like ʻole o ka radiation UV. Ua ʻike ʻia ka mea pale i ka lā in vivo ma kahi o SPF 1.
3.6. Marigold
3.6.1. Moolelo, Hoohana, Koi
ʻO Marigold, Calendula officinalis, kahi mea kanu pua ʻala me nā mea hiki ke hoʻōla. Ua hoʻohana ʻia i ka lāʻau lapaʻau ma ʻEulopa a me ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa ma ke ʻano he lāʻau lapaʻau no ke kuni, nā ʻeha, nā ʻoki, a me nā ʻōpala. Ua hōʻike pū ʻo Marigold i nā hopena anticancer i nā hiʻohiʻona murine o ka maʻi maʻi ʻili non-melanoma.
3.6.2. Hoʻohui a me ka Mechanism o ka hana
ʻO nā mea kemika nui o nā marigolds he steroids, terpenoids, free and esterified triterpene alcohols, phenolic acids, flavonoids, a me nā mea ʻē aʻe. ʻOiai ua hōʻike ʻia kahi noiʻi e hiki i ka hoʻohana ʻana o ka marigold extract ke hoʻemi i ka paʻakikī a me ka ʻeha o ka radiation dermatitis i nā poʻe maʻi e loaʻa ana i ka radiation no ka maʻi kanesa o ka umauma, ʻaʻole i hōʻike ʻia nā hoʻokolohua lapaʻau ʻē aʻe i ke kiʻekiʻe ke hoʻohālikelike ʻia me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ʻaila wai wale nō.
3.6.3. Hōʻike ʻepekema
Ua hōʻike ʻia ʻo Marigold i kahi mana antioxidant a me nā hopena cytotoxic i nā maʻi maʻi maʻi kanaka ma ke ʻano hoʻohālike o ka ʻili ʻili kanaka in vitro. I loko o kahi kaʻawale in vitro study, ua loiloi ʻia ka ʻaila ʻaila calendula ma o UV spectrophotometric a loaʻa iā ia ka spectrum absorbance i ka laulā o 290-320 nm; ʻO kēia ka manaʻo o ka hoʻohana ʻana i kēia ʻaila i hāʻawi maikaʻi i ka pale lā. He mea nui e hoʻomaopopo, akā naʻe, ʻaʻole kēia he hoʻokolohua in vivo i helu i ka liʻiliʻi o ka erythema dose i nā mea manawaleʻa kanaka a ʻaʻole maopopo ke ʻano o ka unuhi ʻana i nā hoʻokolohua lapaʻau.
I loko o kahi hoʻohālike in vivo murine, ua hōʻike ka marigold extract i kahi hopena antioxidant ikaika ma hope o ka hoʻolaha ʻana o UV. Ma kahi noiʻi ʻokoʻa, e pili ana i nā ʻiole albino, ua hoʻemi ʻia ka ʻaila nui calendula i ka malondialdehyde (he hōʻailona o ke koʻikoʻi oxidative) ʻoiai e hoʻonui ana i nā kiʻekiʻe o ka catalase, glutathione, superoxide dismutase, a me ascorbic acid i loko o ka ʻili.
Ma kahi haʻawina makapō ʻewalu pule me 21 mau kānaka, ʻo ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ʻaila calendula i nā papalina i hoʻonui i ka paʻa ʻana o ka ʻili akā ʻaʻohe hopena koʻikoʻi i ka elasticity o ka ʻili.
ʻO kahi palena kūpono i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka marigold i nā mea hoʻonaninani ʻo ia ka marigold kahi kumu i ʻike ʻia o ka dermatitis contact allergic, e like me nā lālā ʻē aʻe o ka ʻohana Compositae.
3.7. Pomegerane
3.7.1. Moolelo, Hoohana, Koi
ʻO ka Pomegranate, Punica granatum, he mana antioxidant ikaika a ua hoʻohana ʻia i nā huahana he nui ma ke ʻano he antioxidant topical. ʻO kona ʻano antioxidant kiʻekiʻe e lilo ia i mea hoʻohui maikaʻi i nā mea hoʻonaninani.
3.7.2. Hoʻohui a me ka Mechanism o ka hana
ʻO nā mea hana biologically o ka pomegranate he tannins, anthocyanins, ascorbic acid, niacin, potassium, a me piperidine alkaloids. Hiki ke unuhi ʻia kēia mau mea olaola mai ka wai, nā ʻanoʻano, ka ʻili, ka ʻili, ke aʻa, a i ʻole ke kumu o ka pomegerane. Ua manaʻo ʻia kekahi o kēia mau mea he antitumor, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, antioxidant, a me nā hopena photoprotective. Eia kekahi, ʻo ka pomegerane kahi kumu nui o nā polyphenols. Hiki i ka ʻakika Ellegic, kahi ʻāpana o ka pomegranate extract, hiki ke hoʻemi i ka pigmentation o ka ʻili. Ma muli o ka lilo ʻana i mea hoʻohiki anti-kahiko, ua noiʻi nā noiʻi he nui i nā ala e hoʻonui ai i ke komo ʻana o ka ʻili o kēia pūhui no ka hoʻohana ʻana.
3.7.3. Hōʻike ʻepekema
ʻO ka huaʻai pomegranate e pale i nā fibroblasts kanaka, in vitro, mai ka make ʻana o nā cell i hoʻokomo ʻia e UV; ma muli paha o ka emi ʻana o ka hoʻāla ʻana o NF-κB, downregulation o proapoptotic caspace-3, a hoʻonui i ka hoʻoponopono DNA. Hōʻike ia i nā hopena anti-skin-tumor e hoʻolaha ana i nā hopena in vitro a kāohi i ka modulation UVB-induced o nā ala NF-κB a me MAPK. ʻO ka hoʻohana ʻana o ka pomegranate rind extract e hoʻohaʻahaʻa i ka COX-2 i loko o ka ʻili puaʻa hou i unuhi ʻia, ka hopena i nā hopena anti-inflammatory. ʻOiai ua manaʻo pinepine ʻia ka ʻakika ellegic ʻo ia ka mea ikaika loa o ka extract pomegranate, ua hōʻike ke kumu hoʻohālike murine i ka hana anti-inflammatory kiʻekiʻe me ka hoʻohālikelike ʻia ʻana o ka waika ellegic wale nō. ʻO ka noi kumuhana o kahi microemulsion o ka pomegranate extract e hoʻohana ana i ka polysorbate surfactant (Ma waena o 80®) i ka hoʻohālikelike ʻia he 12 mau pule me 11 mau kumuhana, hōʻike i ka emi ʻana o ka melanin (ma muli o ka tyrosinase inhibition) a me ka emi ʻana o ka erythema i hoʻohālikelike ʻia i ka mana kaʻa.
3.8. Soya
3.8.1. Moolelo, Hoohana, Koi
ʻO ka Soybeans kahi meaʻai protein kiʻekiʻe me nā mea bioactive i loaʻa paha nā hopena anti-old. ʻO ka mea nui, he kiʻekiʻe ka soybeans i nā isoflavones, hiki ke loaʻa nā hopena anticarcinogenic a me nā hopena estrogen-like ma muli o ke ʻano diphenolic. Hiki i kēia mau hopena e like me ka estrogen ke pale aku i kekahi o nā hopena o ka menopause i ka ʻelemakule o ka ʻili.
3.8.2. Hoʻohui a me ka Mechanism o ka hana
ʻO Soy, mai Glycine maxi, he kiʻekiʻe i ka protein a loaʻa nā isoflavones, me ka glycitein, equol, daidzein, a me genistein. ʻO kēia mau isoflavones, i kapa ʻia ʻo phytoestrogens, hiki ke loaʻa nā hopena estrogenic i loko o ke kanaka.
3.8.3. Hōʻike ʻepekema
Loaʻa i ka Soybeans nā isoflavones me nā pōmaikaʻi anti-kahiko. Ma waena o nā hopena biologic, hōʻike ka glycitein i nā hopena antioxidant. ʻO nā fibroblasts dermal i mālama ʻia me ka glycitein i hōʻike i ka hoʻonui ʻana o ka cell proliferation a me ka neʻe ʻana, hoʻonui i ka synthesis o nā ʻano collagen I a me III, a hoʻemi i ka MMP-1. I loko o kahi noiʻi ʻokoʻa, ua hui pū ʻia ka soy extract me ka haematococcus extract (ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻe o ka algae wai i loko o nā antioxidants), nāna i hoʻohaʻahaʻa i ka MMP-1 mRNA a me ka ʻōlelo protein. Ua hōʻike ʻo Daidzein, kahi isoflavone soy, i nā hopena anti-wrinkle, hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻili, a me nā hopena hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻili. Hiki ke hana ʻo Diadzein ma ka hoʻoulu ʻana i ka estrogen-receptor-β i ka ʻili, ka hopena i ka hoʻonui ʻana i ka hōʻike o nā antioxidants endogenous a me ka hoʻohaʻahaʻa ʻana i ka hōʻike ʻana o nā kumu transcription e alakaʻi i ka hoʻonui a me ka neʻe ʻana o keratinocyte. ʻO ka isoflavonoid equol i loaʻa i ka soy i hoʻonui i ka collagen a me ka elastin a hoʻemi i nā MMP i ka moʻomeheu cell.
Hōʻike nā haʻawina hou i loko o ka vivo murine i ka emi ʻana o ka make cell i hoʻokomo ʻia e UVB a me ka emi ʻana o ka mānoanoa epidermal i loko o nā cell ma hope o ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā ʻāpana isoflavone. Ma kahi noiʻi pailaka o 30 mau wahine postmenopausal, ʻo ka hoʻohana waha ʻana o ka isoflavone extract no ʻeono mahina i hoʻonui ai i ka mānoanoa epidermal a hoʻonui i ka collagen dermal e like me ke ana ʻana e nā biopsies ʻili ma nā wahi i pale ʻia e ka lā. Ma kahi noiʻi ʻokoʻa, ua hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻia nā isoflavone soy i ka make keratinocyte i hoʻokomo ʻia i ka UV a ua hoʻemi i ka TEWL, ka mānoanoa epidermal, a me ka erythema i ka ʻili ʻiole i hōʻike ʻia i ka UV.
Ua hoʻohālikelike ʻia kahi RCT makapō pālua ʻelua o nā wahine 30 makahiki 45-55 i ka hoʻohana ʻana o ka estrogen a me genistein (soy isoflavone) i ka ʻili no 24 mau pule. ʻOiai ʻo ka hui e hoʻohana ana i ka estrogen i ka ʻili he hopena maikaʻi aʻe, ua hōʻike nā hui ʻelua i ka hoʻonui ʻia ʻana o ka collagen facial type I a me III e pili ana i nā biopsies ʻili o ka ʻili preauricular. Hiki i nā soy oligopeptides ke hoʻemi i ka helu erythema i loko o ka ʻili i hōʻike ʻia i ka UVB (forearm) a hoʻemi i nā pūnaewele sunburnt a me nā dimer cyclobutene pyrimidine i loko o nā pūnaʻi foreskin i hoʻomālamalama ʻia e UVB ex vivo. Ua hōʻike ʻia kahi hoʻokolohua lapaʻau he 12 pule i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i kahi kaʻa ʻelua makapō e pili ana i 65 mau mea wahine me ka hōʻino ʻia o ka helehelena maʻalahi i ka hoʻomaikaʻi ʻana i ka pigmentation mottled. ʻO ka hui pū, hiki i kēia mau mea ke hāʻawi i nā hopena anti-kahiko, akā ʻoi aku ka ikaika o nā hoʻokolohua lapaʻau randomized pono e hōʻike pono i kona pono.
4. Kūkākūkā
ʻO nā huahana Botanical, me nā mea i kūkākūkā ʻia ma aneʻi, loaʻa i nā hopena anti-kahiko. ʻO nā ʻano hana o nā mea kanu anti-aging e loaʻa i ka hiki ke hoʻopale radical manuahi o nā antioxidants i hoʻohana ʻia, hoʻonui i ka pale o ka lā, hoʻonui i ka moisturization o ka ʻili, a me nā hopena he nui e alakaʻi ai i ka hoʻonui ʻana i ka hana collagen a i ʻole ka hoʻohaʻahaʻa ʻana o ka collagen. ʻO kekahi o kēia mau hopena he haʻahaʻa ke hoʻohālikelike ʻia me nā lāʻau lapaʻau, akā ʻaʻole ia e hōʻemi i ko lākou pono kūpono ke hoʻohana pū ʻia me nā ʻano hana ʻē aʻe e like me ka pale ʻana i ka lā, ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā sunscreens, ka moisturization i kēlā me kēia lā a me ka lāʻau lapaʻau kūpono i nā kūlana ʻili e kū nei.
Hoʻohui hou, hāʻawi nā botanicals i nā mea hana biologically ʻē aʻe no nā poʻe maʻi makemake e hoʻohana wale i nā mea "kūlohelohe" ma ko lākou ʻili. ʻOiai ʻike ʻia kēia mau mea ma ke ʻano, he mea nui ia e hoʻoikaika i nā mea maʻi ʻaʻole ia he manaʻo ʻaʻole i loaʻa nā hopena ʻino o kēia mau mea, ʻoiaʻiʻo, ʻike ʻia ka nui o nā huahana botanical he kumu kūpono o ka dermatitis contact allergic.
No ka mea ʻaʻole koi nā huahana cosmetic i ka pae like o ka hōʻike e hōʻoia i ka maikaʻi, paʻakikī pinepine ka hoʻoholo inā he ʻoiaʻiʻo nā koi o nā hopena anti-aging. ʻO kekahi o nā hua lāʻau i helu ʻia ma ʻaneʻi, aia nō nā hopena anti-ʻelemakule, akā pono nā hoʻokolohua lapaʻau ikaika. ʻOiai he paʻakikī ke wānana pehea e hoʻopōmaikaʻi pono ai kēia mau mea kanu botanical i ka poʻe maʻi a me nā mea kūʻai aku i ka wā e hiki mai ana, no ka hapa nui o kēia mau botanicals, e hoʻomau ʻia ka hoʻokomo ʻia ʻana o nā mea kanu e like me nā huahana mālama ʻili a inā lākou. e mālama i kahi palena palekana ākea, ka ʻae ʻana o ka mea kūʻai aku, a me ka hiki ke kūpono, e noho mau lākou i nā hana mālama ʻili maʻamau, e hāʻawi ana i nā pono liʻiliʻi i ke olakino ʻili. No ka helu palena ʻole o kēia mau lāʻau botanical, akā naʻe, hiki ke loaʻa ka hopena ʻoi aku ka nui o ka lehulehu ma o ka hoʻoikaika ʻana i nā hōʻike o kā lākou hana olaola, ma o nā hoʻokolohua biomarker maʻamau maʻamau a ma hope o ke kau ʻana i nā pahuhopu maikaʻi loa i ka hoʻokolohua hoʻokolohua lapaʻau.
Ka manawa hoʻouna: Mei-11-2023
